Intimate get together: Anne de Grijff

Photo's by Press Only & Fashiolista (Maddie Raedts and Emilie Sobels)

Fall is coming, and with that so are the new fall collections. Launch parties, cocktail get togethers and collaboration celebrations fill the air of Amsterdam with fashion vibes.

Request for Landing - Conny Groenewegen AIFW

It's a warm and starry summer nights sky: not completely dark, but more deep cobalt blue. I enter the field where the show is to be held. I must note that a field is not the best choice for a show during fashion week, as 98% of all women are wearing heels. Mine sink deep into the moist earth with every footstep I take. I stumble along to a bunch of people standing in a large circle. It's remarkably silent, I think, amazed by the little noise that's coming from this amount of people. When I get closer to the crowd, however, I can distinguish the silhouette of big headphones. Aha! That's why no one's talking. They're listening to music; it's a silent disco...

Amidst the circle of the fashion crowd, people are sitting on pallets wrapped in plastic, while models march in any direction. It reminds me of last season's Prada show in Milan, when models were walking in different directions too. This is much more intimate though, which is exactly what designer Conny Groenewegen had in mind. Big lightbulbs hanging on a stick, light up when a model walks past, giving it a more industrial than disco theme. I think Edison would've been proud.

In the middle of the show, the models gather together for a group photoshoot. And not just any shoot, they all strike different poses, resulting in wonderful pictures.

The show, called Request for Landing, is about the transform process of a caterpillar into a butterfly. Conny Groenewegen explains: "It's a bit like designing a collection. With the show you - more or less - also ask permission from the audience to land, to be seen."

"I've been inspired by insects, butterflies mainly. The lines of the looks, the fabrics and materials and the show aspect have all been influenced by these insects." This is clearly visible in the shiny metallic fabrics, the soft lines and the holes that look like a beehive. And thus the second show during AIFW inspired by a physical process of nature.

Check this video to get an even better image of the show:

Photo's: Team Peter Stigter

Sporty pleats please - Daryl van Wouw

Issey Miyake's pleats please must've been of inspiration to Daryl this season (Funny note: mum on the phone: "Is it Saturday you're going to Waryl van Douw?"), as he both pleated away with his sporty tee's and bottoms as with classy evening gowns. My favourite: the cobalt blue -  pleated - gown, with loose and low back.

The show aspect is definitely around. The beginning of the show reminds me of Iris van Herpen's show earlier this week: a pounding sound, vibrating through the air, filling the audience with excitement of what's to come. What's coming are mustard yellow leather shorts, with pleated and ruffled pockets, balloon pleated skirts and simple tee's: the sporty looks aren't very divers, as Daryl shows us a lot of the same only in different colour palettes. A subtle exotic feel is given by the coloured streaks in the model's hair, and by the headbands with golden coins, hand accessories and the big round earrings. The white gowns with coloured accessories seem a bit ancient greek inspired, and Daryl combines both the classy elegant with the sporty in a very subtle, but good way.

Let's bring the circus to AIFW: Individuals AMFI

Being the proud AMFI student that I am, I was very anxious seeing what my fellow students designed for our own label, Individuals. I must say, I definitely liked some things, but wasn't blown away by the entire collection.

The music reminded me of the circus, and so did the make up: big spidery eyes combined with bright green, orange and pink eyeshadow, a dog (?) painted over the face of a model gave it that surreal circus touch. The looks varied from wide satin dresses in salmons, nudes and whites, combined with accessories in deep colours as fuchsia, turquoise and purple, to more sporty swimwear, still in those same three deep colours. Individuals did a good job, as after the show I found out the theme was indeed circus!

I didn't quite like the bra straps right above the knee though, as well as the bright knee caps in the beginning of the show. To me, they seemed a bit useless, and it looked a bit over-accessorized. I'm never a fan of very bright colours though, so the last bit of the show was more my taste: heavy gold and grey satin duchesse little blazers, a very feminine brown crocodile tail coat, and a beautiful black and beige printed silk fringed scarf. The best looks of the evening to me were the long silk coat and the black rope tied top. In combination with the bright and dramatic make up, (see the pictures at the beginning of this post) they were absolute winners.

Final conclusion: I think Individuals definitely succeeded in portraying their main theme, the circus. The bright coloured looks weren't really my taste, therefore I am more enthusiastic about the looks that had blacks, whites, nudes, salmons and beige tones, and heavy make up. I do think that musicwise Individuals could've been more original. The switch from one music to the other wasn't very smooth, which didn't build on the professional level.

Photos: Team Peter Stigter

Sail away sisteract: Spijkers en Spijkers at the opening soiree

A big ship painted on the breast of a model. A mauve jersey jumpsuit with a little boat on the front. Floaty dresses in VOC  slash ‘Delfts Blauw‘ prints. White dresses and blouses with blue shell shapes all over, as some sort of exotic print. 

The two twinsisters Riet Spijkers en Truus Spijkers, showed their SS11 collection at the Westergasfabriek during the opening soiree of Amsterdam Fashion Week (AIFW). They were inspired by the Dutch folksong ‘Daar was laatst een meisje loos’ (translated: A little girl was missing) that dates back to 1774.

In the 18th century a lot of girls dressed as boys so they could sail along with the big trading ships, which is what this song is about. The designerduo chose to show us a nautical theme with a twist. A very wearable collection, with stripes, Brigitte Bardot black and white printed tops, round shaped red and white sunglasses, and flowing kaftans and cute beach dresses in greens, blues and whites. Red lips, salty sea coupes and matching platform wedges with a cork sole and a see through plastic strap finished the look. 

St Tropez in the ’60s with a 18th century feel; a mix of times and cultures, very well performed.

Photos: Peter Stigter

How good are you in physics? Iris van Herpen SS11 AIFW 2010

It’s completely dark once the lights are turned off. The space is vibrating with one single pounding noise, rumbling and booming through the air. Then, drops of water are heard, and with that a huge 3D animated hologram fills the back wall. A naked girl, splashed with water, slowly turning around the water and ending being dressed in an ice gown. Crystallization…

“In the transformation of water in to crystal, Iris van Herpen finds the liquid chaos, which evolves to a solid architectural structure, which is the inspiration to this ‘Crystallization’ collection.” explains the informative piece of paper that some of us have gotten their hands on. With the ten outfits the 26-year old designer gives us a preview of what’s to come in London Fashion Week, where she’ll be showing the entire SS11 collection.

The sound is now an electric beat, with drops and water sounds in it. The first model walks the catwalk bare footed, the rest is wearing heels with little chains, a continued collaboration with United Nude, the architectural shoe label of Rem D. Koolhaas. Both the movement as the crystallization of the collection is mirrored in these shoes.

Iris van Herpen often takes an intangible process and tries to translate this in her collection. This time it’s the physical process of water turning into ice, making the models look as ice sculptures, with frozen ice in their hair, and wonderful ice wings. She uses leather in greys and browns, symmetrical dresses with asymmetrical organic shaped ice wings, which remind of butterflies. Medieval collars appear to be an inspiration, as they are pleated around the entire front of the upper body, letting the back of the model exposed. The shadows of the models are reflected on the back wall, and give the impression of a huge superwoman walking out of space.

The crowd is getting hysterical, as it’s so fresh and so innovative, though van Herpen’s signature remains very visible. The combination of new, innovative techniques, as the 3D printing, with handcrafted pieces brings an inspiring opposite in the collection.

Pictures: Peter Stigter

Opening Soiree AIFW

Yesterday was Amsterdam’s Fashion Week Opening Soiree. It marked the kick off of a week full of fabulous fashion, intriguing outfits and amazing moments. Fellow Fashiolista Maddie and I were invited to pull a fancy dress out of our closets (so much to wear, and so little time to choose!) and watch the opening shows. Keep on checking the blog daily, as I will report on many shows of fashion week!

Are you... READYTOFISH_?

Those of you living in Amsterdam have probably already noticed the city is taken over by, well, football supporters, but that’s not whom I pointing at right now. I’m talking about the buzzing vibe that the Amsterdam International Fashion Week (AIFW) has brought along! Because as from today it’s the official start of a week full of opening soirees, special pop-up stores, fashion events and… fashion shows!

This past monday however, one of Hollands greatest designers Ilja Visser, already showed her SS 11 READYTOFISH_ collection at the Brouwersgracht, in an old hidden church. I was working as their personal twitter and facebook girl to give you live updates on backstage’s preparation, and watching the show. (Backstage photo's can be found on the facebook and twitter page of READYTOFISH_, as well as on www.blog.fashiolista.com)  

The show started at 20.00 hrs, and it was filled with important members of the Dutch fashion world. The collection was a mix of coral tones, dark blues, shades of brown and beige, and silk printed blazers and dresses. The print looked as if someone had been playing with watercolour paint and the colours beautifully swirled from one into the other. Indigo jumpsuits, ink blue pleated skirts and white leather shoppers. LUSH!

The models were pale, with redish eye make up. They looked a bit sick, but in scruffy beautiful way. Curly redheads and blondes and one amazingly stunning dark girl all marched down the incredible catwalk: they came out from the upper left corner, onto a sort of boardwalk, down some steps, onto the actual catwalk, posed for the photographers and back on the boardwalk through another staircase. The background was a geometrical pattern of silver boards and enlightened white squares. A little tetris looking – super 2010 though.

Check out my blog regularly this week, as fashion week continues with more updates on shiny shows and much more!

Video: Emilie Sobels
Pictures: Peter Stigter