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By: Mike Mills

Saturday, July 31, 2010

Modefabriek 2010

Fashion Week is hardly over, or another big event takes control of the cities fashion freaks. This past Sunday and Monday the Rai complex was transformed in a clean, white space, consisiting of six big halls that were the stage of a couple hundred fashion brands. Each of them showing the guests (shop- and store owners and pressmembers) what a unique and special concept they had. This event, called Modefabriek (transl.: fashion factory) also hosted a fashion show, called Platform. Both young designers and upcoming labels, as well as avant-garde designers, were showing their collections, divided into two groups: Next and Cutting Edge. Cutting Edge definitely lived up to their name; it was indeed quite cutting edge, as the designs were rather risky and not very usual. Next showed us wearable and some rather lovely looks. Warmi was one of the inspiring brands that will be featured in today's post. Enjoy!

Want to see more knits, pastels and funky goatskin bags? Click to go to the website.

Comfi long knitted sweaters with cute prints in pastels: soft pink, seablue and turquoise combined with handknitted shorts. Goatskinned bags mixed with colourful leather details and black lacquer bits and  funky shoes: shiny black broques with white, salmon and pink golfing flaps. All knits are handmade in Columbia, so explains the Parisien based designer Sylvia Toth, originally from Bogota, Colombia.

Warmi SS11 - Platform show 'Modefabriek' July 2010 - Next & Cutting Edge

Want to read more on inspiring brands that were showing at Platform? Click here.  

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Lush Deborah Bowness wallpaper. Need I say more?

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Friday, July 30, 2010

Spotted in Berlin: grafiti artist XOOOOX

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Thursday, July 29, 2010

I've found my true love. 

Wednesday, July 28, 2010

Left image: 'Classic and Modern Fabrics' by Janet Wilson
Right image: Cotton fabric by Jean-Charles de Castelbajac

Although the Dutch magazine Residence normally is full of, well, the name quite reveals its content already, but it's full of residences, this summer's July/August issue is also interesting for us fashion freaks... The issue starts with a six page spread on miss Donatella Versace's 'modest' interior of her Milan apartment. The bright-lit colours of modern artworks by Mimmo Paladino and Giorgio de Chirico and her 'sunset' couch that's made of glass mosaic (one of her favourites), clash immensely with the classical Medici feel that has such a strong hold on the rest of the space. The result is an interesting mix of old and new, that shows off the true Versace spirit.

Images show Donatella Versace's apartment in Milan. (Source: Residence, issue July/August 2010)
The mag continues with nearly twenty pages of the most colourful fabrics. If this doesn't bring the real summer sway alive, I don't know anything else that will. My favourite is the one on page 41, a cotton fabric with black handwritten texts printed on stripes in seven different colours. 'Il était une fois' by Jean-Charles de Castelbajac, a French fashion designer, designed exclusively for Maison Boussac.

Interested in fabrics? Janet Wilson, teacher at the London College of Fashion and fabricdesigner explains everything there is to know in 'Classic and Modern Fabrics'. Interesting, inspiring and educative!

Next Residence: a look inside Diane von Furstenberg's house...

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Monday, July 26, 2010

Pelayo Diaz Zapico (UK) for Kate Loves Me at katelovesme.net 
Louise Ebel (France) for Pandora at misspandora.fr
Jane Aldridge (USA) for Sea of Shoes at seaofshoes.com
Susanna Lau (UK) for Style Bubble at stylebubble.co.uk
Danny Roberts (USA) for Igor + Andre at igorandandre.blogspot.com 
Click on Fashiolista.com to go to the book 'Fashion Blogs' directly

Sunday, July 25, 2010

Vintage market at Westergas, terrain of Amsterdam Fashion Week. 
Eco-Chanel: Ciska en Piet created an affordable
(and sustainable!) solution to the worlds most longed after brand
Just follow the signs...
Scarf aka headband. OBSESSED.
Kiboots: colourful handmade leather boots
 made of vintage killimrugs by artisans in Marocco.
You can't have it all: in love with a pair of vintage Ralph Laurens sunglasses

Friday, July 23, 2010

I met one of the most sincere and warmhearted persons this week. You can read all about my encounter with amazing Andy from stylescrapbook.com on www.blog.fashiolista.com.

Tuesday, July 20, 2010

Request for Landing - Conny Groenewegen AIFW

It's a warm and starry summer nights sky: not completely dark, but more deep cobalt blue. I enter the field where the show is to be held. I must note that a field is not the best choice for a show during fashion week, as 98% of all women are wearing heels. Mine sink deep into the moist earth with every footstep I take. I stumble along to a bunch of people standing in a large circle. It's remarkably silent, I think, amazed by the little noise that's coming from this amount of people. When I get closer to the crowd, however, I can distinguish the silhouette of big headphones. Aha! That's why no one's talking. They're listening to music; it's a silent disco...
Amidst the circle of the fashion crowd, people are sitting on pallets wrapped in plastic, while models march in any direction. It reminds me of last season's Prada show in Milan, when models were walking in different directions too. This is much more intimate though, which is exactly what designer Conny Groenewegen had in mind. Big lightbulbs hanging on a stick, light up when a model walks past, giving it a more industrial than disco theme. I think Edison would've been proud.

In the middle of the show, the models gather together for a group photoshoot. And not just any shoot, they all strike different poses, resulting in wonderful pictures.
The show, called Request for Landing, is about the transform process of a caterpillar into a butterfly. Conny Groenewegen explains: "It's a bit like designing a collection. With the show you - more or less - also ask permission from the audience to land, to be seen."
"I've been inspired by insects, butterflies mainly. The lines of the looks, the fabrics and materials and the show aspect have all been influenced by these insects." This is clearly visible in the shiny metallic fabrics, the soft lines and the holes that look like a beehive. And thus the second show during AIFW inspired by a physical process of nature.

Check this video to get an even better image of the show:

Sunday, July 18, 2010

Sporty pleats please - Daryl van Wouw

Issey Miyake's pleats please must've been of inspiration to Daryl this season (Funny note: mum on the phone: "Is it Saturday you're going to Waryl van Douw?"), as he both pleated away with his sporty tee's and bottoms as with classy evening gowns. My favourite: the cobalt blue -  pleated - gown, with loose and low back.

The show aspect is definitely around. The beginning of the show reminds me of Iris van Herpen's show earlier this week: a pounding sound, vibrating through the air, filling the audience with excitement of what's to come. What's coming are mustard yellow leather shorts, with pleated and ruffled pockets, balloon pleated skirts and simple tee's: the sporty looks aren't very divers, as Daryl shows us a lot of the same only in different colour palettes. A subtle exotic feel is given by the coloured streaks in the model's hair, and by the headbands with golden coins, hand accessories and the big round earrings. The white gowns with coloured accessories seem a bit ancient greek inspired, and Daryl combines both the classy elegant with the sporty in a very subtle, but good way.

Let's bring the circus to AIFW: Individuals AMFI

Being the proud AMFI student that I am, I was very anxious seeing what my fellow students designed for our own label, Individuals. I must say, I definitely liked some things, but wasn't blown away by the entire collection.

The music reminded me of the circus, and so did the make up: big spidery eyes combined with bright green, orange and pink eyeshadow, a dog (?) painted over the face of a model gave it that surreal circus touch. The looks varied from wide satin dresses in salmons, nudes and whites, combined with accessories in deep colours as fuchsia, turquoise and purple, to more sporty swimwear, still in those same three deep colours. Individuals did a good job, as after the show I found out the theme was indeed circus!

I didn't quite like the bra straps right above the knee though, as well as the bright knee caps in the beginning of the show. To me, they seemed a bit useless, and it looked a bit over-accessorized. I'm never a fan of very bright colours though, so the last bit of the show was more my taste: heavy gold and grey satin duchesse little blazers, a very feminine brown crocodile tail coat, and a beautiful black and beige printed silk fringed scarf. The best looks of the evening to me were the long silk coat and the black rope tied top. In combination with the bright and dramatic make up, (see the pictures at the beginning of this post) they were absolute winners.

Final conclusion: I think Individuals definitely succeeded in portraying their main theme, the circus. The bright coloured looks weren't really my taste, therefore I am more enthusiastic about the looks that had blacks, whites, nudes, salmons and beige tones, and heavy make up. I do think that musicwise Individuals could've been more original. The switch from one music to the other wasn't very smooth, which didn't build on the professional level.

Friday, July 16, 2010

Sail away sisteract: Spijkers en Spijkers at the opening soiree

A big ship painted on the breast of a model. A mauve jersey jumpsuit with a little boat on the front. Floaty dresses in VOC  slash ‘Delfts Blauw‘ prints. White dresses and blouses with blue shell shapes all over, as some sort of exotic print. 

The two twinsisters Riet Spijkers en Truus Spijkers, showed their SS11 collection at the Westergasfabriek during the opening soiree of Amsterdam Fashion Week (AIFW). They were inspired by the Dutch folksong ‘Daar was laatst een meisje loos’ (translated: A little girl was missing) that dates back to 1774.

In the 18th century a lot of girls dressed as boys so they could sail along with the big trading ships, which is what this song is about. The designerduo chose to show us a nautical theme with a twist. A very wearable collection, with stripes, Brigitte Bardot black and white printed tops, round shaped red and white sunglasses, and flowing kaftans and cute beach dresses in greens, blues and whites. Red lips, salty sea coupes and matching platform wedges with a cork sole and a see through plastic strap finished the look. 

St Tropez in the ’60s with a 18th century feel; a mix of times and cultures, very well performed.

Thursday, July 15, 2010

How good are you in physics? Iris van Herpen SS11 AIFW 2010

It’s completely dark once the lights are turned off. The space is vibrating with one single pounding noise, rumbling and booming through the air. Then, drops of water are heard, and with that a huge 3D animated hologram fills the back wall. A naked girl, splashed with water, slowly turning around the water and ending being dressed in an ice gown. Crystallization…

“In the transformation of water in to crystal, Iris van Herpen finds the liquid chaos, which evolves to a solid architectural structure, which is the inspiration to this ‘Crystallization’ collection.” explains the informative piece of paper that some of us have gotten their hands on. With the ten outfits the 26-year old designer gives us a preview of what’s to come in London Fashion Week, where she’ll be showing the entire SS11 collection.

The sound is now an electric beat, with drops and water sounds in it. The first model walks the catwalk bare footed, the rest is wearing heels with little chains, a continued collaboration with United Nude, the architectural shoe label of Rem D. Koolhaas. Both the movement as the crystallization of the collection is mirrored in these shoes.

Iris van Herpen often takes an intangible process and tries to translate this in her collection. This time it’s the physical process of water turning into ice, making the models look as ice sculptures, with frozen ice in their hair, and wonderful ice wings. She uses leather in greys and browns, symmetrical dresses with asymmetrical organic shaped ice wings, which remind of butterflies. Medieval collars appear to be an inspiration, as they are pleated around the entire front of the upper body, letting the back of the model exposed. The shadows of the models are reflected on the back wall, and give the impression of a huge superwoman walking out of space.

The crowd is getting hysterical, as it’s so fresh and so innovative, though van Herpen’s signature remains very visible. The combination of new, innovative techniques, as the 3D printing, with handcrafted pieces brings an inspiring opposite in the collection.

Pictures: Peter Stigter
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